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The chrysanthemums covering the entire surface of the fabric of this dress make it a fine example of Japonisme, which referred to the influence of Japanese art on Western art and culture and described the craze for things Japanese in the last quarter of the 1800s.
After 1890 the bustle disappeared, and the new skirt styles were flared smoothly over the hip and then gradually widened at the hemline. By 1895 the leg-o-mutton sleeves had swelled to gigantic proportions. Tiny waists were further emphasized by the hourglass silhouettes that resulted through the balance between the width of the skirt and the volume of the sleeves.
Mrs. William H. Jungclaus, Indianapolis, Indiana; given to Indianapolis Museum of Art (September 19, 1974).